Drill vs. Impact Driver: Choose by the Hole or Fastener
Learn how drills and impact drivers differ in action, bit fit and screw control—and which to buy for holes, delicate fasteners or repeated driving.
A drill/driver provides smooth rotation for drilling holes and controlled screwdriving. An impact driver adds rapid twisting blows when resistance rises, making it useful for demanding fastening. Both can drive screws, and an impact driver can drill with suitable accessories—but they are not interchangeable for every job.
If you’re buying one tool for general home repairs, start with a drill/driver. Add an impact driver when long screws or repeated fastening become a regular part of your work.
What actually differs
Here, “drill” means a typical cordless drill/driver with an adjustable chuck and screwdriving clutch.
| Feature | Drill/driver | Impact driver |
|---|---|---|
| Driving action | Smooth, continuous rotation | Rotation plus twisting impacts under load |
| Bit holder | Usually a three-jaw chuck | Usually a 1/4-inch quick-change hex holder |
| Screw control | Adjustable clutch limits transmitted torque | Trigger control; some models add speed and assist modes |
| Best starting point | Drilling holes and seating delicate screws | Long screws and repeated, higher-resistance fastening |
| Main trade-off | Can twist in your hands if a bit binds | Noisy when impacting; easy to overtighten without care |
The impact mechanism delivers blows in the direction of rotation, rather than hammering the bit forward. That distinction explains why it helps turn a resistant screw but does not replace a masonry hammer drill. Pro Tool Reviews explains the mechanisms and controls.
Screw control matters more than maximum torque
A drill’s numbered clutch settings are useful when installing cabinet hardware, assembling furniture or driving small screws. At the selected resistance, a mechanical clutch slips rather than continuing to transmit full driving torque.
Start with a low setting, test on matching scrap where possible, then increase it until the screw seats correctly. The numbers are settings—not calibrated torque values. Select drill mode when boring holes; on the Makita XFD13, for example, the manual explicitly states that the clutch does not operate at the drill setting. Makita’s drill/driver instructions describe both the clutch and trial-screw procedure.
An impact driver generally lacks that numbered mechanical clutch. Low-speed and assist modes can make it easier to control, but they are not necessarily calibrated torque limits. Stop when the fastener reaches its required seating position: continued impacting can strip threads, damage the bit or overstress the screw. For a connection with a specified tightening torque, follow its installation procedure and verify torque with the appropriate tool. Makita’s impact-driver manual warns about excessive impact force and fastening time and calls for torque-wrench checks.
Do not choose between these tools solely by their advertised maximum torque. A higher impact-driver figure does not establish better hole-drilling performance.
Can an impact driver drill holes?
Yes, with compatible, impact-rated drill bits—but a drill remains the more versatile choice for hole-making.
A drill chuck can grip round and hex shanks within its capacity. A typical impact driver needs a compatible 1/4-inch hex shank with the correct retention geometry. That measurement describes the shank, not the hole diameter. This chuck comparison explains the fit requirements.
Hex shape alone does not prove impact suitability. Check the accessory’s rating and intended material. For example, Milwaukee lists its 1/2-inch SHOCKWAVE titanium drill bit as engineered for drills and impacts, with a 1/4-inch hex shank. Our hex drill-bit guide covers shank fit and impact ratings in more detail.
For ordinary twist bits, accurate pilot holes, countersinking and broad accessory compatibility, choose the drill. For occasional holes while mainly fastening, a correctly rated hex-shank bit can let you keep using the impact driver.
An impact driver is not a hammer drill
A hammer drill adds forward percussion to rotation for suitable masonry drilling. An impact driver adds twisting impacts for fastening. For brick or concrete holes, choose the drilling tool and masonry bit specified for the job—not an impact driver simply because its name includes “impact.” Hammer-equipped drill/drivers can also operate with hammer action switched off. This comparison explains hammer mode.
Buy for your work sequence
- Mostly holes, repairs and furniture assembly: buy a drill/driver first. Prioritize chuck fit, usable speed ranges and clutch control.
- Mostly long screws or repeated fastening: an impact driver is a useful addition. Look for controllable low-speed operation, not just maximum output.
- Regularly drilling pilot holes before driving screws: owning both lets you leave the drill bit in one tool and the driver bit in the other. Follow the fastener maker’s pilot-hole requirements; extra driving force is not a substitute for preparation.
Wear eye protection with either tool and hearing protection when using an impact driver. Secure the workpiece and use any supplied auxiliary handle as instructed. The relevant impact-driver safety instructions specifically require ear protection.